Step 7. If all is well, the display should now be active even though the unit is not being powered by the mains. You had a hard wired link between Live, 5 (common for CH) and 6 (Hot water on). That's why I thought your hot water was permanently on. There was also a hard link between 3 (CH on) and 7 (HW off). Then there were connections to all four terminals for CH on/off and HW on/off which is not normal. So I wonder if the other end of those wires go to the expected places. If only 3 & 8 were originally connected as per pdf .... For a gravity HW system, the hot water coming on fires up the boiler and the central heating being on powers the pump. To get you up and running should require the following links on the ST9400C I would really like to get rid of the thermostat in the hall altogether for cosmetic purposes and I would love to have more flexible control over the heating than the draconian timer we have now that has one setting for all days for both the heating and the hot water at the same time. If you have a S-Plan system with a single heating zone 3 for HW-On and 4 for CH-On, nothing to either 1 or 2.

Prior to the ST699 failing did everything work as you would expect. What you programmed as the hot water on/off cycles is what happened. Likewise for the central heating. Ideally I would like a modern digital timer with flexibility for multiple programmes for different days and times and a wireless thermostat in the living room to control the temperature. And one that doesn't lose all it's settings whenever there is a power interruption!

Why Use The Engineer Scheme?

I've been doing a lot of research on heating systems recently, and for those that have seen my other topic I've been having trouble with a cold radiator which I think will need new valves. As an aside my 'bay' window is more like a box on the side of the house, it's not full height and as far as I can see the large window sill is the only thing separating it from the outside, which seems like a horrible design from an energy saving/warmth point of view considering all the other walls have cavity wall insulation. My question is how difficult would it be to replace just the timer and thermostat (with a wireless one) without touching anything else in the system? Would I need to replace it with a Honeywell model or are all the wires like for like?

Yep like that - they're called 'Lifestyle 2-port motorised valve', there is one underneath the pump on a pipe that doesn't go into the cylinder, and one on a pipe that come off the other pipe and goes into the cylinder about halfway up it. They've both got what looks like a switch with A - B settings, the one on the pipe running down past the cylinder is set to B, and the one on the pipe running into the cylinder is set to A, someone has also written on this one with a marker pen putting a C next to the A and an O next to the B (presumably meaning open and closed?). The only reason I wasn't going to bother with downstairs was because we don't really have trouble with the heat levels downstairs, if anything it's hard to keep it warm even when heaters are on constantly as it is a large open plan space and has a very large bay window at one end and French doors at the other.When it didn't work, I've Googled again and come across this Forum. Whilst I can find a few issues other users have had, I can't find anything that relates to my issue. I have noticed however, that the old wiring to the ST699 that is redundant, wasn't as per the diagram I saw in one of the posts. I have cables linking:

It's all connected and I've set the time and date, all is okay. However, even though the lights come on, it won't fire up either the heating or the water! I do know that there is a Grundfos pump in the airing cupboard next to the cylinder and two white boxes connected to the pipes which I believe are motorised valves, but that is the extent of my knowledge - the airing cupboard is a bit of a spaghetti junction or pipes and wheel valves, and I don't really know what any of them do! I just opened them all when I first moved in and hoped for the best, I've never touched them since lol.Also on your prior ST699 connections. The hard link from L to 5 means that when the hot water was "off" power would have gone across to 3 (CH-On)